Our last stop in the Dominican Republic was Punta Cana. Knowing we were going there, I googled it and saw plenty of beautiful pictures of the resorts and beaches in the area. But pictures do not do justice to real life sand and sea.
When we walked in to the lobby of the Barcelo Bavaro Palace, I was mesmerized by these larger than life ceramic mosaic figures. I took a lot of pictures of them and the many others around the grounds.
Punta Cana is for tourists. We were told the Europeans discovered it years before the Americans did. There was evidence of this everywhere we went. We did hear a lot of English spoken along with Russian, lots of Russian, Spanish, Italian and a smattering of lots of other languages.
Punta Cana beach
Angel in Barcelo Bavaro Palace lobby
The white sand, the layers of blue, turquoise and aqua of the water and the breeze coming off the ocean were stunning. Beautiful. This is where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Caribbean Sea. We actually saw the line drawn across the water where the division occurs. LOL. But, loved the idea. And now I have proof. I really am an angel.
This monument is as gorgeous as it is huge and honors the Heroes of the Restoration, those who liberated the Dominican Republic from Spain. We arrived there to see it after it had closed and so didn’t get to go inside the several museums. It is topped with a statue of Victory personified as a woman with her arms upraised.
Santiago de los Caballeros by daylight
Santiago de los Caballeros Monument at night
The grounds around the monument are beautifully landscaped and adorned with statues. All of them are larger than life. There are historical heroes, baseball heroes and fanciful carnaval characters. It was drizzling, so our gracious host, Natalia, took us across the street to the Kukaramakara Country Bar and Restaurant, her favorite restaurant in Santiago, for shelter and dinner. What a great idea! Our table was lined up perfectly with the front of the monument so we took one picture when were arrived and another as we were getting ready to leave. I have mentioned before, I think, that meals in the Dominican Republic typically last about three hours.
The restaurant was decorated in early American Cowboy style. Large T.V. screens showed old John Wayne movies. The menu made our dinner choices difficult. Sushi was unexpected, mostly because of the cowboy theme. Seafood is always offered here in the D.R.. It is an island, after all. There were many mofongo choices and barbeque dishes.
Kukaramakara, Santiago, Dominican Republic
Inside Kukaramakara
Our companion, Bob Alsop, was hungry for ceviche and we didn’t see it on the menu. We described to our waiter what we wanted and he was excited to bring us the Judaea Makara Fish Ceviche and a mixed grill dish, similar to paella, that included octopus, squid, oysters, lobster, shrimp, mero (sea bass), beef, pork, tripe and rice in a fabulous sauce. It was so delicious and we solved all of the world’s problems as we relished every bite.
Santiago is the second largest city in the D.R. and the agricultural center. it’s located in a beautiful, lush, green valley known for its coffee and sugar cane plantations, cattle ranches, rice farms, and amber mines. It’s so beautiful. We’ll be back.
I love to be in a city long enough to get a sense of place. And as I talk with the people who live there, I love the understanding that comes about how they live their lives and what matters to them. All over this city, in fact, all over the Dominican Republic there are men standing around in public places ready to find a parking place for you…..for a few dollars. And when there isn’t a parking space in sight, they’ll always find one. Everyone needs to be tipped. It’s understood. That’s their work. That way everyone is happy. When you get used to it, accept it, and go with the flow…..an understanding comes. It’s like three hour meals. Relax. Enjoy your life and allow others to enjoy theirs.
It was amazing to see! Santo Domingo is the oldest continually inhabited European city in the Americas. The buildings are over 500 years old in the Colonial Zone.
We had lunch at Pura Tasca overlooking a statue of Frey Nicholas de Ovando, the first governor, and a museum in the Colonial Zone. We enjoyed tapas, shrimp and rice and, of course, mofongo. We were right next to where the Rio Ozama and the Caribbean Sea meet. The Fortaleza Ozama was built there to protect the port and the city.
It was interesting to hear the history of how Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand funded Christopher and Bartholomew Columbus and their explorations in the Americas and about the struggle to control the Dominican Republic. The construction of the Fort was begun in 1502 and flew the flags of Spain, England, France, Haiti, Gran Columbia, the U.S. and the D.R. until the 1960’s when it was opened to the public.
Dominican Republic Coat of Arms Dios, Patria, Libertad
Colonial Zone Santo Domingo Dominican Republis
There were canons spaced along the sea wall from the Colonial Zone into Santo Domingo.
Cannons along the sea wall of Colonial Zone Santo Domingo
Church with Dominican Republic Coat of Arms
The history of the Dominican Republic sounds just like the history of the United States and the settlement and canal construction history of Panama. The explorers and settlers either ran out out the native inhabitants or enslaved them and brought African slaves as well. Conquest.
I googled the conquest of central america and had some unexpected links pop up: the mongol conquest of central asia, the russian conquest of central asia and the arab conquest of central asia, the roman conquest of britain, etc. And so it looks like the common one word descriptor of world history is “Conquest”. It seems every country on every continent has experienced conquest. Every one of them has had citizens killed and enslaved. It’s a pattern. We seem to live life in cycles and patterns.
Ding Dong. The bell went off! Last year we went to see Dinesh d’Souza’s movie “America”. He had gone into great detail about this very subject. This is just the first time I’ve personally bumped up against it. It’s interesting to me how I can learn lots of disconnected information and (pow) something brings my mind to connect it and other thoughts are drawn to expand…..that’s it, expansion!
Again: Goethe said “You only see what you’re looking for and you only look for what you know.”
Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic, is an interesting melting pot of cultures. We heard a lot of spanish, of course, but also a lot of french, italian and russian. The food was so good. We ate a lot of tapas with sangria and a large variety of fresh, fresh seafood.
This was my first introduction to Mofongo. A totally strange flavor that at first I couldn’t understand. Why oh why would anyone want to willingly eat mashed up plantains, garlic and pork rinds. It sort of sounded like the South (USA) to me. You know “cracklins”….. Please don’t you southerners be offended. You know what I’m talking about.
This was the common presentation that I saw when it was ordered in a restaurant. Someone in our group ordered it every meal. It was mounded into a footed, wooden bowl. Often it was served with shrimp, pork, etc. and a sauce.
Mofongo
Mofongo with shrimp
In Santo Domingo and in Punta Cana, a breakfast buffet was included with our room. The buffets included omelets made to order, bacon, hams, a huge selection of fresh fruit, scrambled eggs, lots of breads, rolls and croissants, fried potatoes, paella with a wide variety of shellfish, red beans, rice and, of course, a large buffet server full of mofongo with sliced red onions strewn all over the top. The mofongo is a creamy bland mixture, not unlike lumpy, mashed potatoes, and the red onion gave it just the right amount of tang. It was a curiosity at first. Gradually, it became a staple and we enjoyed it just as much as any Dominican.
You know the saying: “When in Rome, do as the Romans do”. Well, when in the Dominican Republic enjoy the Mofongo, Sancocho and seafood. It’s the best!
I was introduced to Sancocho our second day in Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic. I was unfamiliar with it so who knows how long I would have gone without trying it if a small shot glass of it hadn’t been served as a complimentary starter as we ordered for lunch. It’s fabulous! It’s rich and full bodied and velvety. Yum!
I googled Sancocho and there are tons of recipes and descriptions. It’s go good I’m going give it a try and see if I can come close to the perfection of the memory I have of it. It has many kinds of meat and is really a stew. It’s spiced up with onion, peppers, oregano, cilantro, orange and lime juice and thickened with vegetables, plantain, etc. Sound good? I think it does. It’s served with rice and slices of avocado.
It’s possible the charm of the Adrian Tropical Restaurant had something to do with the deliciousness of the food because it was as if we were in a tropical grotto. The tables were arranged along side a waterfall and stream with ponds of koi under palm trees on one side and a turtle pond and rock formations with lush plants on the other. The sound of the water beckoned and Kia and I walked every inch of the bridge and path leading to the waterfall taking pictures of each other and the fish and the turtles.
We had plenty of time to do this because nothing happens quickly in the Dominican Republic. Every meal is a three hour event that includes shared appetizers and drinks then sometimes shared dishes for a main course, sometimes not and small deserts and coffee or espresso. ESPRESSO! I discovered espresso!
That didn’t sound like enough to take up three hours…..and it wouldn’t be except for the long spaces in between. And, as the warmth and humidity and the relaxing take place there doesn’t seem to be any reason to rush. Everything will eventually get done. Everything that doesn’t get done today will tomorrow…..probably. And in that very happy, relaxed mindset everything under the sun is talked about and enjoyed. The conversation becomes the highlight of the meal. And every meal is memorable.
Koi pond
Turtle pond
This meal was all about sancocho, mofongo, koi, turtles and a love affair with Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic.
Five days ago I was in the Dominican Republic on the east coast in Bavaro and Punta Cana. Palm Trees lined the beaches and streets. The sand was white and fine and felt wonderful between my toes. The sun was dazzling and the blues, turquoises and aquas of the sky and water were breathtaking and took my breath for sure.
I wanted to bottle the air, the breeze, the sand, the sun, the feeling of warmth and salt and freedom. What a marketable product that would make. I wouldn’t even put a label on it. I’d just let it beguile the purchaser all by itself. Who could resist?
As I drove to the airport, I said “goodbye palm trees”, “goodbye beach”, “goodbye clean, clear ocean”. I felt a tinge of sadness. I arrived home after midnight. It was dark. I had no idea what I would see the next morning. But, I sort of knew, because it’s March in Utah. Utah is a desert and so grey, brown and drab after the snow melts.
Morning came and the was sun shinning. That was a plus. As I moved around the house and looked out the windows, bright spots of color caught my eye. I had to grab my camera and head out for a walk to see what was happening.
Pink Flowering Plum Tree
Forsythia
Forsythia, pink and white plum trees, crocus and new growth on the rose bushes. Most every tree and bush is coming to life. It’s Spring! It’s Springtime in the Rockies.
Hyacinth
new rose bush growth
Daffodils
White Hyacinth
The crocus are timidly showing and the daffodils are exploding. The peonies, ground cover and tulips are peeking through. Even my lilac trees are budding.
Yes, I miss the tropics. But there is a lot to be said about the change of seasons and the dry air of the desert. That is the majesty of our Mother Earth. There is beauty wherever you look. If you look, there is beauty everywhere.
